So Thailand has come and gone. Thailand was heavenly, everything was so friendly, cheap, easy and cheap. Alas all good things must come to an end, but I am fortunate enough to have another good thing beginning in India!
Ok so to wrap up Thailand. Just as I was feeling a little ready to stop traveling alone, I was bombarded with wonderful company. The night I last updated my blog, one of the owners of the guesthouse was having his birthday. They invited me to join them for "Thai Barbecue," which is a cross between hot pot and grilling. An open donut shaped metal pot is placed on top of coals where soup and vegetables are boiled, and then in the middle is a mound with slits for grilling meats. When the meats were done we dipped them in some tasty chili sauces. Around this birthday celebration I got to meet some other fellow travelers from Russia and some nice locals as well. As I was going to put something back in my room, I overheard in Chinese a plan to go to Doi Suthep. I turned around and saw a group of Chinese women making a plan for the next day to do a variety of things. I sorta just jumped in and asked if I could join, they were excited at my Chinese and readily agreed. They were even nice enough to leave in the afternoon instead of the morning so that I could go to my massage. Who knew Chinese would be helpful in Thailand? Later that evening I met with Aleela (the woman in the market who showed me to the masseuse) and got introduced to a whole crowd of people she was sitting with.
The next morning I went back to my mysterious massage lady who worked on me for another full 2 hours. Then in the afternoon I joined with the Chinese women and we piled into a truck up a long and windy road into the jungle and up the mountain. Our first stop was this really gorgeous Wat. It was right by a waterfall and in the jungle, filled with all kinds of statues, paintings, and Buddhas. There were two statues at the entrance that particularly struck me--they had the broad bodies of lions and the torso and heads of beautiful Thai dancers, the looked like they were straight out of the "The Never Ending Story." Next we went to the King's Winter palace, which was really quite underwhelming. The rose garden wasn't in bloom, and most of the picturesque scenes were covered up for gardening or construction purposes. I found myself really enjoying these sweet Chinese women, and in the interesting position of being able to half understand everyone. I could half understand the Chinese, and half understand the Thai broken English. As a result, I ended up doing some haphazard translation for both sides, mostly just translating the heavy Thai accented English, into less accented English with a few Chinese words thrown in for clarification. It was quite funny, and I was actually impressed I was able to decipher and translate words like "car sick" and "catch a cold" and explain in Chinese why one woman had to rent some clothes to be respectful.
We were going to go to a hill village, but most of the women were really car sick, so we just went to Doi Suthep. Ah, finally Soi Suthep, much more what I was expecting. A beautiful golden temple surrounded by beautiful Buddhas and offerings. It was also under construction, but still glistened in the sunlight. After a long day of being touristy, we came home.
The next and last day in Thailand I decided just to indulge in all my favorite things I had found over the week. I ate my favorite foods, got one last massage (though I admit that it wasn't as good as my mystery lady), and ended the day with mango sticky rice. I was pretty proud of my budgeting. I literally did everything I reasonably wanted to do and had just enough for the airport.
That evening I went to the airport, and like last time was stuck outside of security because I arrived in Bangkok after the Air India check-in had closed. I had a rather uncomfortable and cold sleepless night, and finally when it cam time to check in, my flight got delayed by about 3 hours. However Air India was nice enough to give us breakfast vouchers, so I got to wander around the airport for some coffee.
Eventually I finally arrived in India! Seina picked me up from the airport and we went to her home after running some last minute Diwali gifts. I am in this really interesting place in my life right now where I feel like I can come home to so many different places. New York, New Mexico, California, Minnesota, and now India as well. The dusty smell, the half hindi half English, the intensely sweet smell from the constant incense all feels so comforting to me. I think a lot of it is that people almost assume I am from here. A standard question while I am here is "are you Indian?" not "where are you from?'
I passed out pretty soon after dinner (delicious calamari, prawns, sea bass, and pork chop). We woke up this morning early to go to our first Diwali puja at a house that Seina's family is building. For those unfamiliar with Diwali, it is India's huge winter time celebration. It celebrates the return of Rama, Laskman and Sita from defeating the ten headed demon Ravana as told in the classic epic, The Ramayana. Though I learned today that Diwali also is related to Lakshmi, which in turn means that things like gambling is also seen as very auspicious today. The puja (ceremony) was lovely, and Seina's family was very sweet in including me in all the rituals. Then throughout the day we did 4 more pujas. I got to change into my Sari, and I always love wearing saris. Seina and her mom told me we will go out to buy me another one for the wedding, which I am quite excited about. By the end, we were all quite exhausted.
After dinner Seina and I left the smoke filled house from incense to join the festive war zone outside in setting off the huge sack full of fireworks she bought. All around were loud pop and cracks followed by festive lights and smoke. Apparently after today all the mosquitoes die from suffocation of the smoke, while I am kinda craving some fresh air right now and relief from my headache, I won't complain too much if it gets rid of all those pests.
So that is where I am now! Seina and I will be do some planning tomorrow for our travels. Pictures are coming soon I promise!
Friday, November 5, 2010
Monday, November 1, 2010
Taking on the Call to Adventure!
Ok so this will be a long post, but I assure you a lot has happened!
So Saturday I was eating some street food and taking pictures. I was taking a picture of some merchants, and one of them covered her face. I asked if she was shy, she said no and then beckoned me to come over. I realized she was covering her face because she wasn't a merchant. We talked for a bit, and I found out she is Nepali. She eventually asked me if I like massage,and started to tell me about this woman she sees here who is a healer and how all the major massage schools keep trying to recruit her as a master teacher, but she keeps refusing because she doesn't like the big institutions. She continued to tell me all these amazing things this woman has done and then asked to see my back. I turned around and she almost immediately hit my huge knot in my right shoulder and the base of my back where I hurt it last year ( and apparently is still tender). She told me she is an accupressurist and that I had a lot of energy, and this woman can help. I agreed for this woman to take me to her the next morning.
I immediately started to analyze and assess the situation, trying to figure out if it was a scam or worse some ploy to kidnap me or rob me, but something in me really wanted to trust it.
So I went home and got ready for the Halloween party I was invited to. I found a Sui Tao ( a group taxi in the form of a truck) and told him the address. The driver started to flirt with me hardcore, asking me about if I am single, have a boyfriend, have children, like handsome men, often repeating the questions 6-15 times. I started to get pretty uncomfortable, especially when he started to touch my hand and hold on to my fingers. I started to notice we were going in the wrong direction. I called him out on it, he apparent misheard where I wanted to go ( even though I wrote it out for him). He promptly turned around thigh, and I kept my eyes peeled. I felt a little better when he picked up two more passengers, and I kept raising,y voice for him to sty focused on taking me to where I asked and insisting my friends were going to start to worry about me because I was so late. Finally we arrived at the street but I couldn't find the bar. I was sick of the driver so i just got out. I walked up and down like 4 times and couldn't find it, and apparenlt no on I ran into had heard of it. Long story short, some nice guy with an iPhone helped me out and I eventually found it. The Halloween party was lackluster. I didn't feel like spending a bunch of money on getting drunk, but everyone else was pretty wasted. I left around midnight because I was still battle jet lag and was rather impressed with myself for staying out as late as I did.
I was still pretty concerned when i went to bed about the massage situation. I decided to sleep on it though. I actually had this marvelous dream where I went to see this beautiful Chinese woman in this gorgeous garden. There were a bunch of people waiting for her, she was very magnanimous and told everyone she will see them in a moment to schedule appointments. She led me to a separate garden where she asked me to wait, and there were two baby tigers just playing, who started to lovingly play with me. When she was ready she saw me, and i woke up. I know! Pretty straight forward huh? So I woke up feeling better, and to double check I asked the lady who owns the guest house. She said no she didn't think i needed to worry, however I am not sure how clearly she understood the situation. I also scoured the Internet looking for any scams that resembled this one, but didn't find any. So I decided to bring only the money promised and nothing else, and a bike to ensure that i couldn't get in or on any vehicles that could take me farther away than I could walk back.
The woman was at our meeting place right on time, and led me to the masseuse's home, which happened to be like a block away. The home immediately put me at ease. More than half the house was the massage mat, and many anatomy and reflexology chart on the walls. The house was very modest but clean, and the woman had a very warm smile. The woman from the market stayed with me for a bit as the massage began, chatting to me and the woman and occasionally translating. She made sure i felt comfortable and safe before she left. I relaxed into the massage, and I have to admit she was great. She was so much more in tune with my body than the one i had before. The generic one i had was amazing, but I defiantly had a grit my teeth for some painful parts. This time I didn't have that once, i just tried to concentrate on relaxing deeper. She was serial firm with me, but only in the places where i could handle it. There was a softness and gentleness to her touch though very firm and deep as well. If she wasn't touching me the whole time I would have sworn she tampered with the clock to make those 2 hours go by so fast. I felt great afterwards. Throughout the day, I noticed my shoulder felt great, and when I got my heart rate up, I could feel my pulse i n my feet and legs as well, it was quite interesting.
I was going to take an afternoon massage course, but after lunch ( fresh green curry, sticky rice, Thai ice tea, fish cakes and fried banana and taro), I realized the massage school is closed on Sundays. I decided to see doi sothep instead. I knew i could get a cheaper fare if a bunch of people shared a share taxi, but I couldn't find any interested people, so I bit it and decided to go to one of the travel people around. Seemed like the going price was 500bhat. The travel place i went to told me that they had already left, but I could go just rent a taxi for like 200bhat. Perfect! I thought. I even had her write it down in Thai so I could just give it to the driver. I found a tuk tuk driver who agreed, and off we went.
I really liked tuk tuks, they are like an auto rickshaw, open air. We arrived at this beautiful wat, but I kinda had a suspicion that we were not in the right place. For one, there was no other tourists but me. All the same I walked around, and up about 300 stairs. There were many beautiful shrines and statues, and apparently these orbs that looked like crystal balls that glowed. I was slightly underwhelmed, but it was still beautiful. I went back to my driver and we headed back. I asked him how much he would charge to go Tiger Kingdom, he replied the standard reply of 300 bhat. He asked if wanted to go, I told him maybe later. He then said " go now, 100!" Out of my mouth said " sure!" he tried to change it to 200, but I held him to 100 bhat.
In a while we arrived at the Tiger Kingdom. It all happened so fast, I said yes, we were there, some women asked me which tigers I wanted to see, Large, Medium, Small or Smallest. I felt like I was ordering some exotic fast food. I chose the Small (6 months old). I was told to sit and wait, but before my butt even hit the seat I was asked if I was ready. Everyone in my group chose smallest, so I was worried I would not be able to have any pictures since i didn't want to spend an extra 300 for a " professional photographer" and I was told another tourist could take the photos. I got to the large cage/ pen, and there were 3 small tigers. One was sleeping in the sun and the other two were playing with each other. I could hear them roaring, and wow, talk about tremble in my heart. I could feel their deep roars in my chest, they were quite powerful for being only 6 months. I was then invited in...I was in a cage with 3 tigers! The trainers took me to the one who was sleeping first. I was told to pet him firmly, not softly. His fur was a little course, and i could feel his perspiration. I tried to take a picture of myself with the tiger, but the trainer took it and started to take photos, even though the signs all said the trainers wouldn't do that. I was told to rub the Tiger's belly, you like a big striped dog, and he turned over with his paws in the air. Soon the trainers led me to another one on this little table. This one was a female. I approached the tiger from the back so it didn't think I wanted to play. She was actually much softer. Then the visit started to feel a little strange. The trainers started to suggest poses for me, telling me I was very beautiful, asked me to put my head on the tiger, kiss the tigers's nose, compare my hand with her paw, and do other silly things like hold the tail and pretend to sing into it, which i refused to do. It was like a really bizarre photoshoot. I tired to spend my time and attention just in awe of these majestic creatures, but I admit they got some pretty good pictures of me. I went to the other male who was still growling. I was very hesitant to pet this one, and there were all three trainers tapping sticks. He seemed touchy and not really wanting my attention, so i went back to the female. Before I knew it, it was over. Afterwards I went to go look at the other Tigers. The big ones were huge. It was so strange, there were signs not to put fingers through the cage (duh), but other than that you could sit right next to the cage. I got a few pictures with my lens literally on the cage wire. I have really mixed feeling about doing this. There is a deep part of me that believes these are wild animals who shouldn't be caged. They were obviously very trained, and though I saw no evidence of maltreatment, the Tigers knew that a light stick hitting the floor meant to behave, and how they learned that I feel dubious of. Many of the tigers were in very small cages, and it was particularly hard to see the big ones like that, though in some fairness I think they were just temporarily there because I saw other tigers in large outdoor park like cages, and I was there at the end of the day when they were being shifted around. At the same time, it was totally a once in a lifetime experience to cuddle with some real tigers that I am appreciative for. Kinda like the primate sanctuary i worked in, though there are some good things about it, there is something that just felt wrong about these wild creatures being raised to never be able to be in the wild. I am not sure I am " glad" I did it, but I did they are really beautiful and amazing creatures.
I came home, exhausted. I find out through some digging on the Internet that I did not see doi sothep, even though i asked the driver many times, but saw a smaller version. I am really glad i got to see it, and there is always some special feeling that comes from being the only tourist around. I don't know if will still try to make it out to Doi sothep, we will see. I took a little nap, but forced myself to get up for the Sunday market I had heard so much about! I got my video camera and camera and headed out. I was a little hungry, but all the shops on my street were closed already. However as i neared the road, there was like a whole new city had popped up! I stumbled into the incredible assault of colors, sounds, smells and people all around me. Good thing i was hungry, there was so much amazing food everywhere! Everything from mango sticky rice, to dim sum, 5bhat sushi, noodles, rice, satay, to bangers and mash, and then some. I told myself to just check it out for one length and then I can take some pictures/ footage. However it soon became apparent that 1 length could go on for what seemed like forever. And then every few hundred feet it would branch out into another street! Usually when I go to Asia i love shopping for friends and myself, but for some reason this time i have not felt so inspired. I suppose it is a good thing since my suitcase is broken and i can't bring back as much as I though I would be able to. Also since I only have my backpack I am rather limited to only buying things that won't break, which limits quite a bit. There is a lot I would love to buy for my future home, cool lights, lanterns, decorations, candle holders, etc, but the idea of needed to ship and pack more things is another deterrent. So I guess my lack of interest in buying things is good. It was also almost too overwhelming to focus, there was just So much! This is also the first time I started to really wish I was traveling with someone. There was just too much food to try alone, and I wanted to share my awe with someone else.
It has been interesting traveling alone. I thought I would find people to hang out with and travel with, but I haven't been able to for some reason. The people i meet and talk to all seem to be on their way to Laos in the morning, are long timers here, or are with a big enough crowd that they aren't looking for more members. I also tend to be eating at all local places, which are way cheaper and delicious, but I mostly only see Thai people there, and the few that speak English are very nice but won't travel around with me.
Today I decided to take a massage course. I decided ( with your support and suggestion) to start out on foot massage. I went to a local school to book a class and then headed out to find the flower market. I couldn't find the flower market, but stumbled on apparently the biggest local market in Chaing Mai. Less colorful and showy than the Sunday market, but also huge. I wandered for awhile through aisle upon aisle of things I didn't recognize. I bought some wonderful mini coconut pancakes and coconut water to snack on as I got lost in the market maze.
I headed back to go take my course. It was actualy quite good for only a half day course. I learned a lot of new moves! It was actually quite instense, certian areas of my foot when massaged made me sweat, or made me feel my stomache and shoulder. Refelxology is quite amazing!
After yesterdays big splurge, I found myself a exhausted and much shorter on funds. From now on to stay in my budget won't be hard per say, but I need to be conscious, and I guess worse things have happened then going a little over budget. So the mysterious massage woman told me to come back tomorrow, but currently in my budget I only have enough to either go to Doi suthep, or get the massage. It is a dilemma, and I could take out more but it seems a shame to pay double for the service charge than the experience itself.
Ok, two observations I have been meaning to say then I swear am done. 1) Part of why I love Thai food so much is that they really love to balance sweet, salty, sour and spicy, in almost all dishes. In every local place there is at least 4 jars with fish sauce ( salty), sugar ( sweet), chili ( spicy), and some vinegar ( sour). 2) it is really neat to come to an Asian country and see all the animals so well taken care of. In India there are a ton of dogs, but they are all extremely dirty and sick looking. Here, dogs, cats, birds, roam around and all look like adorable healthy pets.
Ok so that's all for now. I can't wait to show you some pictures when I get to India. In Thailand for only 2 more days :(, but then off to India where I get to hang out with wonderful friends!
So Saturday I was eating some street food and taking pictures. I was taking a picture of some merchants, and one of them covered her face. I asked if she was shy, she said no and then beckoned me to come over. I realized she was covering her face because she wasn't a merchant. We talked for a bit, and I found out she is Nepali. She eventually asked me if I like massage,and started to tell me about this woman she sees here who is a healer and how all the major massage schools keep trying to recruit her as a master teacher, but she keeps refusing because she doesn't like the big institutions. She continued to tell me all these amazing things this woman has done and then asked to see my back. I turned around and she almost immediately hit my huge knot in my right shoulder and the base of my back where I hurt it last year ( and apparently is still tender). She told me she is an accupressurist and that I had a lot of energy, and this woman can help. I agreed for this woman to take me to her the next morning.
I immediately started to analyze and assess the situation, trying to figure out if it was a scam or worse some ploy to kidnap me or rob me, but something in me really wanted to trust it.
So I went home and got ready for the Halloween party I was invited to. I found a Sui Tao ( a group taxi in the form of a truck) and told him the address. The driver started to flirt with me hardcore, asking me about if I am single, have a boyfriend, have children, like handsome men, often repeating the questions 6-15 times. I started to get pretty uncomfortable, especially when he started to touch my hand and hold on to my fingers. I started to notice we were going in the wrong direction. I called him out on it, he apparent misheard where I wanted to go ( even though I wrote it out for him). He promptly turned around thigh, and I kept my eyes peeled. I felt a little better when he picked up two more passengers, and I kept raising,y voice for him to sty focused on taking me to where I asked and insisting my friends were going to start to worry about me because I was so late. Finally we arrived at the street but I couldn't find the bar. I was sick of the driver so i just got out. I walked up and down like 4 times and couldn't find it, and apparenlt no on I ran into had heard of it. Long story short, some nice guy with an iPhone helped me out and I eventually found it. The Halloween party was lackluster. I didn't feel like spending a bunch of money on getting drunk, but everyone else was pretty wasted. I left around midnight because I was still battle jet lag and was rather impressed with myself for staying out as late as I did.
I was still pretty concerned when i went to bed about the massage situation. I decided to sleep on it though. I actually had this marvelous dream where I went to see this beautiful Chinese woman in this gorgeous garden. There were a bunch of people waiting for her, she was very magnanimous and told everyone she will see them in a moment to schedule appointments. She led me to a separate garden where she asked me to wait, and there were two baby tigers just playing, who started to lovingly play with me. When she was ready she saw me, and i woke up. I know! Pretty straight forward huh? So I woke up feeling better, and to double check I asked the lady who owns the guest house. She said no she didn't think i needed to worry, however I am not sure how clearly she understood the situation. I also scoured the Internet looking for any scams that resembled this one, but didn't find any. So I decided to bring only the money promised and nothing else, and a bike to ensure that i couldn't get in or on any vehicles that could take me farther away than I could walk back.
The woman was at our meeting place right on time, and led me to the masseuse's home, which happened to be like a block away. The home immediately put me at ease. More than half the house was the massage mat, and many anatomy and reflexology chart on the walls. The house was very modest but clean, and the woman had a very warm smile. The woman from the market stayed with me for a bit as the massage began, chatting to me and the woman and occasionally translating. She made sure i felt comfortable and safe before she left. I relaxed into the massage, and I have to admit she was great. She was so much more in tune with my body than the one i had before. The generic one i had was amazing, but I defiantly had a grit my teeth for some painful parts. This time I didn't have that once, i just tried to concentrate on relaxing deeper. She was serial firm with me, but only in the places where i could handle it. There was a softness and gentleness to her touch though very firm and deep as well. If she wasn't touching me the whole time I would have sworn she tampered with the clock to make those 2 hours go by so fast. I felt great afterwards. Throughout the day, I noticed my shoulder felt great, and when I got my heart rate up, I could feel my pulse i n my feet and legs as well, it was quite interesting.
I was going to take an afternoon massage course, but after lunch ( fresh green curry, sticky rice, Thai ice tea, fish cakes and fried banana and taro), I realized the massage school is closed on Sundays. I decided to see doi sothep instead. I knew i could get a cheaper fare if a bunch of people shared a share taxi, but I couldn't find any interested people, so I bit it and decided to go to one of the travel people around. Seemed like the going price was 500bhat. The travel place i went to told me that they had already left, but I could go just rent a taxi for like 200bhat. Perfect! I thought. I even had her write it down in Thai so I could just give it to the driver. I found a tuk tuk driver who agreed, and off we went.
I really liked tuk tuks, they are like an auto rickshaw, open air. We arrived at this beautiful wat, but I kinda had a suspicion that we were not in the right place. For one, there was no other tourists but me. All the same I walked around, and up about 300 stairs. There were many beautiful shrines and statues, and apparently these orbs that looked like crystal balls that glowed. I was slightly underwhelmed, but it was still beautiful. I went back to my driver and we headed back. I asked him how much he would charge to go Tiger Kingdom, he replied the standard reply of 300 bhat. He asked if wanted to go, I told him maybe later. He then said " go now, 100!" Out of my mouth said " sure!" he tried to change it to 200, but I held him to 100 bhat.
In a while we arrived at the Tiger Kingdom. It all happened so fast, I said yes, we were there, some women asked me which tigers I wanted to see, Large, Medium, Small or Smallest. I felt like I was ordering some exotic fast food. I chose the Small (6 months old). I was told to sit and wait, but before my butt even hit the seat I was asked if I was ready. Everyone in my group chose smallest, so I was worried I would not be able to have any pictures since i didn't want to spend an extra 300 for a " professional photographer" and I was told another tourist could take the photos. I got to the large cage/ pen, and there were 3 small tigers. One was sleeping in the sun and the other two were playing with each other. I could hear them roaring, and wow, talk about tremble in my heart. I could feel their deep roars in my chest, they were quite powerful for being only 6 months. I was then invited in...I was in a cage with 3 tigers! The trainers took me to the one who was sleeping first. I was told to pet him firmly, not softly. His fur was a little course, and i could feel his perspiration. I tried to take a picture of myself with the tiger, but the trainer took it and started to take photos, even though the signs all said the trainers wouldn't do that. I was told to rub the Tiger's belly, you like a big striped dog, and he turned over with his paws in the air. Soon the trainers led me to another one on this little table. This one was a female. I approached the tiger from the back so it didn't think I wanted to play. She was actually much softer. Then the visit started to feel a little strange. The trainers started to suggest poses for me, telling me I was very beautiful, asked me to put my head on the tiger, kiss the tigers's nose, compare my hand with her paw, and do other silly things like hold the tail and pretend to sing into it, which i refused to do. It was like a really bizarre photoshoot. I tired to spend my time and attention just in awe of these majestic creatures, but I admit they got some pretty good pictures of me. I went to the other male who was still growling. I was very hesitant to pet this one, and there were all three trainers tapping sticks. He seemed touchy and not really wanting my attention, so i went back to the female. Before I knew it, it was over. Afterwards I went to go look at the other Tigers. The big ones were huge. It was so strange, there were signs not to put fingers through the cage (duh), but other than that you could sit right next to the cage. I got a few pictures with my lens literally on the cage wire. I have really mixed feeling about doing this. There is a deep part of me that believes these are wild animals who shouldn't be caged. They were obviously very trained, and though I saw no evidence of maltreatment, the Tigers knew that a light stick hitting the floor meant to behave, and how they learned that I feel dubious of. Many of the tigers were in very small cages, and it was particularly hard to see the big ones like that, though in some fairness I think they were just temporarily there because I saw other tigers in large outdoor park like cages, and I was there at the end of the day when they were being shifted around. At the same time, it was totally a once in a lifetime experience to cuddle with some real tigers that I am appreciative for. Kinda like the primate sanctuary i worked in, though there are some good things about it, there is something that just felt wrong about these wild creatures being raised to never be able to be in the wild. I am not sure I am " glad" I did it, but I did they are really beautiful and amazing creatures.
I came home, exhausted. I find out through some digging on the Internet that I did not see doi sothep, even though i asked the driver many times, but saw a smaller version. I am really glad i got to see it, and there is always some special feeling that comes from being the only tourist around. I don't know if will still try to make it out to Doi sothep, we will see. I took a little nap, but forced myself to get up for the Sunday market I had heard so much about! I got my video camera and camera and headed out. I was a little hungry, but all the shops on my street were closed already. However as i neared the road, there was like a whole new city had popped up! I stumbled into the incredible assault of colors, sounds, smells and people all around me. Good thing i was hungry, there was so much amazing food everywhere! Everything from mango sticky rice, to dim sum, 5bhat sushi, noodles, rice, satay, to bangers and mash, and then some. I told myself to just check it out for one length and then I can take some pictures/ footage. However it soon became apparent that 1 length could go on for what seemed like forever. And then every few hundred feet it would branch out into another street! Usually when I go to Asia i love shopping for friends and myself, but for some reason this time i have not felt so inspired. I suppose it is a good thing since my suitcase is broken and i can't bring back as much as I though I would be able to. Also since I only have my backpack I am rather limited to only buying things that won't break, which limits quite a bit. There is a lot I would love to buy for my future home, cool lights, lanterns, decorations, candle holders, etc, but the idea of needed to ship and pack more things is another deterrent. So I guess my lack of interest in buying things is good. It was also almost too overwhelming to focus, there was just So much! This is also the first time I started to really wish I was traveling with someone. There was just too much food to try alone, and I wanted to share my awe with someone else.
It has been interesting traveling alone. I thought I would find people to hang out with and travel with, but I haven't been able to for some reason. The people i meet and talk to all seem to be on their way to Laos in the morning, are long timers here, or are with a big enough crowd that they aren't looking for more members. I also tend to be eating at all local places, which are way cheaper and delicious, but I mostly only see Thai people there, and the few that speak English are very nice but won't travel around with me.
Today I decided to take a massage course. I decided ( with your support and suggestion) to start out on foot massage. I went to a local school to book a class and then headed out to find the flower market. I couldn't find the flower market, but stumbled on apparently the biggest local market in Chaing Mai. Less colorful and showy than the Sunday market, but also huge. I wandered for awhile through aisle upon aisle of things I didn't recognize. I bought some wonderful mini coconut pancakes and coconut water to snack on as I got lost in the market maze.
I headed back to go take my course. It was actualy quite good for only a half day course. I learned a lot of new moves! It was actually quite instense, certian areas of my foot when massaged made me sweat, or made me feel my stomache and shoulder. Refelxology is quite amazing!
After yesterdays big splurge, I found myself a exhausted and much shorter on funds. From now on to stay in my budget won't be hard per say, but I need to be conscious, and I guess worse things have happened then going a little over budget. So the mysterious massage woman told me to come back tomorrow, but currently in my budget I only have enough to either go to Doi suthep, or get the massage. It is a dilemma, and I could take out more but it seems a shame to pay double for the service charge than the experience itself.
Ok, two observations I have been meaning to say then I swear am done. 1) Part of why I love Thai food so much is that they really love to balance sweet, salty, sour and spicy, in almost all dishes. In every local place there is at least 4 jars with fish sauce ( salty), sugar ( sweet), chili ( spicy), and some vinegar ( sour). 2) it is really neat to come to an Asian country and see all the animals so well taken care of. In India there are a ton of dogs, but they are all extremely dirty and sick looking. Here, dogs, cats, birds, roam around and all look like adorable healthy pets.
Ok so that's all for now. I can't wait to show you some pictures when I get to India. In Thailand for only 2 more days :(, but then off to India where I get to hang out with wonderful friends!
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Wat Wat Wat?
Wat wat wat?
Someone told me a joke which is directions to anywhere is down the street from the Wat and across from the 7-11. This is strangely accruate. I remember begin told that Thailand is obsessed with 7-11s, but I guess I forgot that tidbit. I have to admit they are quite convenient. So those and Wats are everywhere! I walk down the street and check out at least 3 a day and pass up at least 5 others I see. Today I saw a particularly spectacular one.
I ventured out into the new city today and came across a wat with a tall gold buddha outside. There were all these animal statues faced towards the statue in reverence, just like the Lion King, complete with even a donald duck like figure. Even cooler was when you walked up the highly adorned stairs you could look out behind the buddha and feel like you were Simba looking down upon the adoring managare. Inside however was exquisite. Theree were 3 shrines, one on each direction. The left side had 2 center buddhas made of a green luminescent stone I can only guess was jade, and then a bunch of other smaller stone ones as well. Above this shrine was a manadala on the roof and beautiful vibrant paintings of the life of Buddha. The center and right side were gold. Everything was just so beautiful, detailed, vibrant and rich. I was shocked to see that there was no one there though, no monks or guards, just the buddhas. I once again felt inspired to just sit for a bit.
I can't get over how chill it is here. There is so much trust, people are so kind and smiling. The people at my guesthouse trust everyone to borrow the bikes and even motor bikes, we have full use of a kitchen and more.
Ok so now for the food part. Yesterday i took a full day cooking course which was awesome. I think it was really a great choice especially because yesterday morning it raining torrentially. Like the truck we were in had to wade through at least 2 rivers which used to be streets. When i was picked up i was greeted by a truck of European men and they all said "ah our token woman!" they were a fun a group. We all shared all our dishes so everyone got a taste of everything. I have to say I was really impressed at how simple and easy these dishes all were. The most complicated was the curry just because you have to make the paste, and the sticky rice because of the prep time. Everything else is just having he ingredients, which no doubt can be difficult, but I have hope in moving to California that I will able to find the awesome Asian markets.
So i learned how to make a really awesome Penang curry, a rich a vibrant red curry with surprisingly only a few ingredients: coriander seeds, cumin, white peppercorn, chili, shallots, galangal, kaffir lime, coriander root and shrimp paste. I also learned how to make pad Thai! However here they don't use any gooey red sauce, it was really just soy sauce garlic and sugar, and then of course the bean sprouts, garlic chives, peanuts, egg, tofu and prawns. But really you can throw whatever you want in,all done in one wok, 5 min. I also learned how to make spring rolls ( as well as the sauce), chicken and cashew, chicken and basil, an awesome coconut shrimp soup, mango and sticky rice, papaya salad, fried fish salad, toffee bananas, and more. Overall I feel like it was a day well spent. I didn't get the tour of the market cause of the rain, but this morning while wandering around I found the cooking school giving their tour to a new group and they invited me to join. When I get back, I hope to really get a stock of Thai ingredients together, because I love the food so much and it would be so cheap and easy to cook a lot of it if i have the ingredients, and then i can make a Thai feast for YOU as well!
I really love my little street. It is soi 6 off of moon muang road. Every day when I come out of mu guesthouse, there are new stalls or roadside stalls. This morning I found fried bananas, taro and sweet potatoes in a yummy batter that I snacked on for breakfast, I also found some fresh squeezed orange juice. Quick note about the mangos here- they are amazing! I love mangos anyways, but here they have almost no trace of fiber, they are just silky smooth, rich and sweet awesomeness.
I ventured out a little to see where the night market is. I have meant to go every night since i arrived, but I guess jet lag keeps winning the sleeping battle. However, after passing out again yesterday after cooking school, i forced myself to sleep again at 3 am and i slept until 9! So I hope I will solidify my adjustment today. I found the market, though in the day time it is pretty quiet. Maybe I will check out tonight before I go out for the Halloween eve party I was invited to.on today's day trip I found a nice french man at a noodle stall who encouraged me to try the noodles, he said he has been in thailand for 10 years and comes to this stall almost everyday. That was all the endorsement i needed, and indeed they were great, though I have to admit i think my little noodle stall I found near my guest house is better. In fact i am jut waiting to be hungry again so i can go on over and eat some of them again.
So today I just putzed around, but i realize my time is getting short and I need to start doing more things. I found a nice little massage school nearby that i think i will start tomorrow. I am trying to decide if I should do head, foot, or back? I might do two of them, but i don't know if i can afford all 3. Any votes on which I should do? After all YOU will be the ones benefitting from this training, so let me know!
I am also debating whether i should go play with some baby tigers. I am so morally torn. I am just imagining that these poor animals are drugged or tortured like the elephants and i don't want to support any animal cruelty. However I did a little research online and found many reports from supposed European and American vets, zoologists and animal trainers who said that they were actually impressed with how well they were treated and that they showed no signs of being drugged. There are the few reports that claim otherwise as well. That being said...I could cuddle with a baby tiger! I think my compromise to myself is to wait until Tuesday and see how much money i have left, if i have enough without taking out more, i can blow it on the tigers, if not i will not spend an extra $5 service charge to do it. Again if you have any thoughts let me know. I just keep thinking of how cute my new Facebook picture would be cuddling with a baby tiger...
Ok so to recap dear readers: your homework is to let me know what kind of massage you would like/ I should study, and 2 should I go cuddle with some baby tigers and be a totally tourist indulgent? And my homework: to go check out the night market, flower market, and Wat doi soithep ( a beautiful wat overlooking chaing Mai that Keith and Abe studied at).
Someone told me a joke which is directions to anywhere is down the street from the Wat and across from the 7-11. This is strangely accruate. I remember begin told that Thailand is obsessed with 7-11s, but I guess I forgot that tidbit. I have to admit they are quite convenient. So those and Wats are everywhere! I walk down the street and check out at least 3 a day and pass up at least 5 others I see. Today I saw a particularly spectacular one.
I ventured out into the new city today and came across a wat with a tall gold buddha outside. There were all these animal statues faced towards the statue in reverence, just like the Lion King, complete with even a donald duck like figure. Even cooler was when you walked up the highly adorned stairs you could look out behind the buddha and feel like you were Simba looking down upon the adoring managare. Inside however was exquisite. Theree were 3 shrines, one on each direction. The left side had 2 center buddhas made of a green luminescent stone I can only guess was jade, and then a bunch of other smaller stone ones as well. Above this shrine was a manadala on the roof and beautiful vibrant paintings of the life of Buddha. The center and right side were gold. Everything was just so beautiful, detailed, vibrant and rich. I was shocked to see that there was no one there though, no monks or guards, just the buddhas. I once again felt inspired to just sit for a bit.
I can't get over how chill it is here. There is so much trust, people are so kind and smiling. The people at my guesthouse trust everyone to borrow the bikes and even motor bikes, we have full use of a kitchen and more.
Ok so now for the food part. Yesterday i took a full day cooking course which was awesome. I think it was really a great choice especially because yesterday morning it raining torrentially. Like the truck we were in had to wade through at least 2 rivers which used to be streets. When i was picked up i was greeted by a truck of European men and they all said "ah our token woman!" they were a fun a group. We all shared all our dishes so everyone got a taste of everything. I have to say I was really impressed at how simple and easy these dishes all were. The most complicated was the curry just because you have to make the paste, and the sticky rice because of the prep time. Everything else is just having he ingredients, which no doubt can be difficult, but I have hope in moving to California that I will able to find the awesome Asian markets.
So i learned how to make a really awesome Penang curry, a rich a vibrant red curry with surprisingly only a few ingredients: coriander seeds, cumin, white peppercorn, chili, shallots, galangal, kaffir lime, coriander root and shrimp paste. I also learned how to make pad Thai! However here they don't use any gooey red sauce, it was really just soy sauce garlic and sugar, and then of course the bean sprouts, garlic chives, peanuts, egg, tofu and prawns. But really you can throw whatever you want in,all done in one wok, 5 min. I also learned how to make spring rolls ( as well as the sauce), chicken and cashew, chicken and basil, an awesome coconut shrimp soup, mango and sticky rice, papaya salad, fried fish salad, toffee bananas, and more. Overall I feel like it was a day well spent. I didn't get the tour of the market cause of the rain, but this morning while wandering around I found the cooking school giving their tour to a new group and they invited me to join. When I get back, I hope to really get a stock of Thai ingredients together, because I love the food so much and it would be so cheap and easy to cook a lot of it if i have the ingredients, and then i can make a Thai feast for YOU as well!
I really love my little street. It is soi 6 off of moon muang road. Every day when I come out of mu guesthouse, there are new stalls or roadside stalls. This morning I found fried bananas, taro and sweet potatoes in a yummy batter that I snacked on for breakfast, I also found some fresh squeezed orange juice. Quick note about the mangos here- they are amazing! I love mangos anyways, but here they have almost no trace of fiber, they are just silky smooth, rich and sweet awesomeness.
I ventured out a little to see where the night market is. I have meant to go every night since i arrived, but I guess jet lag keeps winning the sleeping battle. However, after passing out again yesterday after cooking school, i forced myself to sleep again at 3 am and i slept until 9! So I hope I will solidify my adjustment today. I found the market, though in the day time it is pretty quiet. Maybe I will check out tonight before I go out for the Halloween eve party I was invited to.on today's day trip I found a nice french man at a noodle stall who encouraged me to try the noodles, he said he has been in thailand for 10 years and comes to this stall almost everyday. That was all the endorsement i needed, and indeed they were great, though I have to admit i think my little noodle stall I found near my guest house is better. In fact i am jut waiting to be hungry again so i can go on over and eat some of them again.
So today I just putzed around, but i realize my time is getting short and I need to start doing more things. I found a nice little massage school nearby that i think i will start tomorrow. I am trying to decide if I should do head, foot, or back? I might do two of them, but i don't know if i can afford all 3. Any votes on which I should do? After all YOU will be the ones benefitting from this training, so let me know!
I am also debating whether i should go play with some baby tigers. I am so morally torn. I am just imagining that these poor animals are drugged or tortured like the elephants and i don't want to support any animal cruelty. However I did a little research online and found many reports from supposed European and American vets, zoologists and animal trainers who said that they were actually impressed with how well they were treated and that they showed no signs of being drugged. There are the few reports that claim otherwise as well. That being said...I could cuddle with a baby tiger! I think my compromise to myself is to wait until Tuesday and see how much money i have left, if i have enough without taking out more, i can blow it on the tigers, if not i will not spend an extra $5 service charge to do it. Again if you have any thoughts let me know. I just keep thinking of how cute my new Facebook picture would be cuddling with a baby tiger...
Ok so to recap dear readers: your homework is to let me know what kind of massage you would like/ I should study, and 2 should I go cuddle with some baby tigers and be a totally tourist indulgent? And my homework: to go check out the night market, flower market, and Wat doi soithep ( a beautiful wat overlooking chaing Mai that Keith and Abe studied at).
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Cloud 9
Wow! Just wow.....
So after my last entry I tried to take a nap, but really I just flopped around. I guess I was anxious or something. I tried to sleep because i knew I was tired, but I just couldn't. So, falling into old patterns when I couldn't fall asleep at school...I did some homework-- for that always put me to sleep. I was able to get my suitcase open, and it immediately fell apart. On the up side I discovered that I can easily fit everything into the trekking backpack, and there is still plenty of room for more so i can buy things. I even brought a little backpack lock, so I can still lock up my few valuables that i don't carry with me in the bottom compartment. Crisis averted! and an extra 800 bhat! I also found some thailand tour guides at my guesthouse, so i borrowed one and did some reading with some good ol' fashioned note taking.
After awhile of this, I felt some lethargy sinking in, my room and bed was just so comfortable and I have so many books to read and movies to watch...but I literally wrote to myself in my diary, "Tara. Get UP!" you know like Matrix style.
I got up and borrowed a bike from the guesthouse ( they are very nice and let you narrow them for free) and made my way to Wat Phra Singh, the most visited Buddhist temple here. It is at the end of "Sunday walk road" which is where the huge Sunday market is. Though I have to say, riding a bike is not like riding a bike...at least not for me, however this may have to do with the fact that my bike had no brakes. I got on, started to make my way to this big Wat ( temple ) and saw a small wat on the way. I turned into it, and promptly fell off as I tried to stop. Luckily no one saw me and I only got a little knee scrap. I did a little practicing around the parking lot like I was 6 again before I ventured out into the world again. I realize on this bike ride the city was so much more alive than it was when walked around at 8:45, I guess this is a sleepy town that wakes up late.
The temple was beautiful. At first I thought something special was going on, there were so many monks there. A sea of orange and turmeric crawled over the place. I wasn't sure if i was allowed to enter, but as I hesitantly tip toed up the stairs, a monk smiled at me and waved for me to come inside. I was the only non- monk in there, let alone tourist. I took some pictures of the beautiful gold buddhas, the paintings, and of the monks smiling and chatting to each other, as well as a few who were watching something on their cell phones. In exploring the grounds I found a beautiful room with a smaller Buddha and a woman in white meditating. I don't know what is was about this room, but I felt moved. I sat down and just sat for awhile. And then i heard the monks from the first room start to chant. All the difficulty and frustration from the prior days just melted away.
I started to make my way back to check out various things that I saw on the way to the wat. I got a huge 24 oz mango shake for less than $1, than checked out this massaging school where I stumbled upon a couple from Vermont who were getting a lesson in foot massage. I moved on to check out some paintings, and check out a little market. I can't get over how chill Thailand in comparison to the other Asian countries I have been to. No one has pressured me to do anything. I get an occasional "taxi?" but all i have to do is smile and shake my head! I don't have to raise my voice sternly, argue, or scurry away. When i look at merchandise i don't have merchants holding things to my face, asking me how much eagerly, or even remotely upset when I say i am just looking. In fact, at this little market all the merchants seemed to hardly notice i was there. I was almost surprised to see there was another girl also shopping around. I saw what she was buying and started a conversation. Turns out she is my age from Tennessee and has been teaching English here, but decided that though she loves it, traveling just wasn't for her and she is going home to be back with her family the same day I am leaving. We found some coffee and I made a friend! She invited me to a pre-Halloween party on Saturday with her roommate and some other friends.
We parted ways and I realized I still hadn't eaten much. So I found a little stall where a woman and her two children were playing that had a little sign "pad thai." I figured this was a good place to start. She made the padthai right in front of me, though I didn't know what was in all the unmarked bottles. Her daughter served me water and I wolfed down a whole plate of light, slightly sweet noodles, sprinkled with the light crunch of bean sprouts. It wasn't nearly as oily or saucy as a lot of the pad Thai I have in the US. Satisfied I went back to my hostel where I booked a full day cooking course so I can learn about these mysterious bottles.
After a little rest and cooling down, I decided my plan was to get a massage and then check out the daily night market. There are about 10 massage place just on my little street alone, so I randomly picked one and asked for a Thai massage. 1 hour, $5, not just priceless, heaven. I have never had one before. It was not like the massage we are used to in the US, it is like a full body work out for the masseuse! She was twisting me into all kinds of pretzels, bracing foot and pushing my hip, using her knees, feet, elbows, everything! It was like yoga done on me, and then adding some intense acupressure and a touch of chiropractic cracking. It was all completely clothed and full body. She spent a lot of time on my legs and moved to my arms, back and face! I think at first i was trying to mentally remember what she was doing, but by the time she moved on to my second leg I was in a different realm and abandoned any silly notions of conscious thought. I gotta learn me some of this. The courses are expensive, but maybe I can take a day in just one area like foot massage or head and face! Any requests?
When she was done I was jello. Like Diana recently said, I have never felt like I wanted to pay more than what i was asked, but I had 3 experiences of that in one day! This first being this massage. I sorta stumbled back in the direction of my guesthouse realizing there is no way i am making it to the night market, but decided I really wanted some mango sticky rice to snack on so like a zombie getting a whiff a brains turned around to find some. Like magic, on my road was a smiling boy that had a sign "mango sticky rice" which might as well said "perfection." He gently assessed each mango until he found the perfect one, peeled it, and gave me the whole mango sliced on a bed of fresh warm sticky rice, he then packaged the warm coconut milk in a puffed bag for me to add when I was ready to eat. Again, about $1.
On my way back to my room I stopped because I smelled something amazing. As I backtracked I saw a little stall with some signs like "breakfast" and "Thai food!" I asked for a khao soi, the curry noodle soup that chiang Mai is famous for for carry out. When I got home assembled this little master piece into a wide bowl. One bag had this light but creamy and fragrant yellow curry broth with chicken and spices. The next bag had some fresh pad Thai type rice noodles, booked and tossed in some spices or sauces. Then were some little bags of freshly sliced shallots and lime. After taking my first bite, I literally almost fell out of my chair in pleasure. If Mu is reading this, this should be on her menu. Again...$1. I would gladly pay $20 for this. I am slightly worried that i have found my daily routine...massage, khao soi, and mango sticky rice all for the indulgent $8, a price i am lucky to find a decent sandwich for in the US.
In my sublime stupor, I apparently passed out and just woke up (4:30am). In about three hours I will going to my all day cooking course to learn how to make some tasty treats, and I will see if i can find out how to make that soup!
Thank you for reading this long entry. I don't think all my entries will be this long, everything is just so exciting when it is brand new!
So after my last entry I tried to take a nap, but really I just flopped around. I guess I was anxious or something. I tried to sleep because i knew I was tired, but I just couldn't. So, falling into old patterns when I couldn't fall asleep at school...I did some homework-- for that always put me to sleep. I was able to get my suitcase open, and it immediately fell apart. On the up side I discovered that I can easily fit everything into the trekking backpack, and there is still plenty of room for more so i can buy things. I even brought a little backpack lock, so I can still lock up my few valuables that i don't carry with me in the bottom compartment. Crisis averted! and an extra 800 bhat! I also found some thailand tour guides at my guesthouse, so i borrowed one and did some reading with some good ol' fashioned note taking.
After awhile of this, I felt some lethargy sinking in, my room and bed was just so comfortable and I have so many books to read and movies to watch...but I literally wrote to myself in my diary, "Tara. Get UP!" you know like Matrix style.
I got up and borrowed a bike from the guesthouse ( they are very nice and let you narrow them for free) and made my way to Wat Phra Singh, the most visited Buddhist temple here. It is at the end of "Sunday walk road" which is where the huge Sunday market is. Though I have to say, riding a bike is not like riding a bike...at least not for me, however this may have to do with the fact that my bike had no brakes. I got on, started to make my way to this big Wat ( temple ) and saw a small wat on the way. I turned into it, and promptly fell off as I tried to stop. Luckily no one saw me and I only got a little knee scrap. I did a little practicing around the parking lot like I was 6 again before I ventured out into the world again. I realize on this bike ride the city was so much more alive than it was when walked around at 8:45, I guess this is a sleepy town that wakes up late.
The temple was beautiful. At first I thought something special was going on, there were so many monks there. A sea of orange and turmeric crawled over the place. I wasn't sure if i was allowed to enter, but as I hesitantly tip toed up the stairs, a monk smiled at me and waved for me to come inside. I was the only non- monk in there, let alone tourist. I took some pictures of the beautiful gold buddhas, the paintings, and of the monks smiling and chatting to each other, as well as a few who were watching something on their cell phones. In exploring the grounds I found a beautiful room with a smaller Buddha and a woman in white meditating. I don't know what is was about this room, but I felt moved. I sat down and just sat for awhile. And then i heard the monks from the first room start to chant. All the difficulty and frustration from the prior days just melted away.
I started to make my way back to check out various things that I saw on the way to the wat. I got a huge 24 oz mango shake for less than $1, than checked out this massaging school where I stumbled upon a couple from Vermont who were getting a lesson in foot massage. I moved on to check out some paintings, and check out a little market. I can't get over how chill Thailand in comparison to the other Asian countries I have been to. No one has pressured me to do anything. I get an occasional "taxi?" but all i have to do is smile and shake my head! I don't have to raise my voice sternly, argue, or scurry away. When i look at merchandise i don't have merchants holding things to my face, asking me how much eagerly, or even remotely upset when I say i am just looking. In fact, at this little market all the merchants seemed to hardly notice i was there. I was almost surprised to see there was another girl also shopping around. I saw what she was buying and started a conversation. Turns out she is my age from Tennessee and has been teaching English here, but decided that though she loves it, traveling just wasn't for her and she is going home to be back with her family the same day I am leaving. We found some coffee and I made a friend! She invited me to a pre-Halloween party on Saturday with her roommate and some other friends.
We parted ways and I realized I still hadn't eaten much. So I found a little stall where a woman and her two children were playing that had a little sign "pad thai." I figured this was a good place to start. She made the padthai right in front of me, though I didn't know what was in all the unmarked bottles. Her daughter served me water and I wolfed down a whole plate of light, slightly sweet noodles, sprinkled with the light crunch of bean sprouts. It wasn't nearly as oily or saucy as a lot of the pad Thai I have in the US. Satisfied I went back to my hostel where I booked a full day cooking course so I can learn about these mysterious bottles.
After a little rest and cooling down, I decided my plan was to get a massage and then check out the daily night market. There are about 10 massage place just on my little street alone, so I randomly picked one and asked for a Thai massage. 1 hour, $5, not just priceless, heaven. I have never had one before. It was not like the massage we are used to in the US, it is like a full body work out for the masseuse! She was twisting me into all kinds of pretzels, bracing foot and pushing my hip, using her knees, feet, elbows, everything! It was like yoga done on me, and then adding some intense acupressure and a touch of chiropractic cracking. It was all completely clothed and full body. She spent a lot of time on my legs and moved to my arms, back and face! I think at first i was trying to mentally remember what she was doing, but by the time she moved on to my second leg I was in a different realm and abandoned any silly notions of conscious thought. I gotta learn me some of this. The courses are expensive, but maybe I can take a day in just one area like foot massage or head and face! Any requests?
When she was done I was jello. Like Diana recently said, I have never felt like I wanted to pay more than what i was asked, but I had 3 experiences of that in one day! This first being this massage. I sorta stumbled back in the direction of my guesthouse realizing there is no way i am making it to the night market, but decided I really wanted some mango sticky rice to snack on so like a zombie getting a whiff a brains turned around to find some. Like magic, on my road was a smiling boy that had a sign "mango sticky rice" which might as well said "perfection." He gently assessed each mango until he found the perfect one, peeled it, and gave me the whole mango sliced on a bed of fresh warm sticky rice, he then packaged the warm coconut milk in a puffed bag for me to add when I was ready to eat. Again, about $1.
On my way back to my room I stopped because I smelled something amazing. As I backtracked I saw a little stall with some signs like "breakfast" and "Thai food!" I asked for a khao soi, the curry noodle soup that chiang Mai is famous for for carry out. When I got home assembled this little master piece into a wide bowl. One bag had this light but creamy and fragrant yellow curry broth with chicken and spices. The next bag had some fresh pad Thai type rice noodles, booked and tossed in some spices or sauces. Then were some little bags of freshly sliced shallots and lime. After taking my first bite, I literally almost fell out of my chair in pleasure. If Mu is reading this, this should be on her menu. Again...$1. I would gladly pay $20 for this. I am slightly worried that i have found my daily routine...massage, khao soi, and mango sticky rice all for the indulgent $8, a price i am lucky to find a decent sandwich for in the US.
In my sublime stupor, I apparently passed out and just woke up (4:30am). In about three hours I will going to my all day cooking course to learn how to make some tasty treats, and I will see if i can find out how to make that soup!
Thank you for reading this long entry. I don't think all my entries will be this long, everything is just so exciting when it is brand new!
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Finally arrived
So this was not the smoothest of expeditions, but I guess this is what happens sometimes when I try to get the absolute cheapest fare possible.
So I arrived at JFK in the afternoon of Oct 26th. Unlike Keith's awesome experience with Cathay Pacific (which I agree is a great airline) I have discovered that I hate Air China. I guess I have been spoiled the last 4 years of internationally traveling, but i guess I started to think that having individual screens to watch movies and listen to music in economy class was fairly standard. However on this 14 hour Air China flight, not only was there no individual screens to select what movie you would like to see, but only one movie the whole time--the new Alice in Wonderland. No music, no skymall to browse through, nothing. I suppose luckily I brought enough of my own entertainment, and I was lucky enough to sit next to a nice woman who shared an interest in photography and movies and had actually been to Chaing Mai many times. Conversation always seems to pass the time quickly. So for a very long and boring and journey, it actually went by fairly quick.
I always forget how crazy Chinese airports are. I had 45 min to change planes and was led through a maze of at least three different security checks. I made it just on time. I suppose Air China was cheap for a reason, they were both pretty empty flights, and the perk about that was I got to stretch out across 5 whole seats and at least get a bit of sleep, which I admit was really nice.
When I arrived in Bangkok it was 11:30pm, and I was actually quite amazed at how busy it was. My flight to Chaing Mai wasn't until 6:45 in the morning, so I was expecting to putz around the airport or find a nice place to stretch out and sleep some more. However, because my next flight was on Air Asia and their counter was closed, I found that I had to kill 5 hours around the check-in counters, and I wasn't alone. All the chairs and benches had already been claimed by apparently the hoards of other travelers in the same position. I found a little corner that looked cozy enough for a florescent lit terminal, and realized that the clasp on my suitcase was broken! I tried to open it but to no avail. I rushed over to the Air China desk and complained. It became a rather annoying wild goose chase, where they told me to go complain to some desk on some other floor, and when I went no one was there...rinse and repeat. At first I was very calm and thought to myself "at least this is a way to kill some time." But as the chase continued to more dead-ends, and more people who couldn't tell me what was going on, I started to get frustrated. By 3 am I finally got some attention. They offered to fix it for me, but I needed to be in Bangkok for 10 days, when I told them I was going to Chaing Mai in a couple of hours, they offered to pay me 300 bhat (about $10). I told them that wasn't enough and they eventually gave me 800 bhat. I guess it is lucky I brought my hiking backpack as padding. I will see if I can fit everything in there before I look for a new bag...but it was my favorite yellow suitcase :(. RIP
Anyways, I finally arrived in Chaing Mai perhaps 2 hours ago. I found this lovely guest house that Abe recommended called Giant Guest house. They greeted me with hugs, a nice clean room with a fan, drinking water, hot tea, and free internet. I took a little stroll to stretch my legs. Tried some random things wrapped in a banana leaf that was delicious, but I failed in figuring out what it was called. I kept pointing at it asking, "name?" "called?" she replied "pork" over and over again. I nodded, trying to convey that i understood there was pork inside. I pointed to things I thought I knew like "rice" "curry" then pointing to the banana leaf with a quizzical look...but she just put the curry and rice in the bag as well. I said nevermind and paid for the thai tamale and continued my walk.
I think I actually need a nap. Landing is always rough and my body is confused what time it is and where I am. So time for nap, maybe some more walking exploring today, maybe try to figure out my luggage deal, and then...I have no idea.
So I arrived at JFK in the afternoon of Oct 26th. Unlike Keith's awesome experience with Cathay Pacific (which I agree is a great airline) I have discovered that I hate Air China. I guess I have been spoiled the last 4 years of internationally traveling, but i guess I started to think that having individual screens to watch movies and listen to music in economy class was fairly standard. However on this 14 hour Air China flight, not only was there no individual screens to select what movie you would like to see, but only one movie the whole time--the new Alice in Wonderland. No music, no skymall to browse through, nothing. I suppose luckily I brought enough of my own entertainment, and I was lucky enough to sit next to a nice woman who shared an interest in photography and movies and had actually been to Chaing Mai many times. Conversation always seems to pass the time quickly. So for a very long and boring and journey, it actually went by fairly quick.
I always forget how crazy Chinese airports are. I had 45 min to change planes and was led through a maze of at least three different security checks. I made it just on time. I suppose Air China was cheap for a reason, they were both pretty empty flights, and the perk about that was I got to stretch out across 5 whole seats and at least get a bit of sleep, which I admit was really nice.
When I arrived in Bangkok it was 11:30pm, and I was actually quite amazed at how busy it was. My flight to Chaing Mai wasn't until 6:45 in the morning, so I was expecting to putz around the airport or find a nice place to stretch out and sleep some more. However, because my next flight was on Air Asia and their counter was closed, I found that I had to kill 5 hours around the check-in counters, and I wasn't alone. All the chairs and benches had already been claimed by apparently the hoards of other travelers in the same position. I found a little corner that looked cozy enough for a florescent lit terminal, and realized that the clasp on my suitcase was broken! I tried to open it but to no avail. I rushed over to the Air China desk and complained. It became a rather annoying wild goose chase, where they told me to go complain to some desk on some other floor, and when I went no one was there...rinse and repeat. At first I was very calm and thought to myself "at least this is a way to kill some time." But as the chase continued to more dead-ends, and more people who couldn't tell me what was going on, I started to get frustrated. By 3 am I finally got some attention. They offered to fix it for me, but I needed to be in Bangkok for 10 days, when I told them I was going to Chaing Mai in a couple of hours, they offered to pay me 300 bhat (about $10). I told them that wasn't enough and they eventually gave me 800 bhat. I guess it is lucky I brought my hiking backpack as padding. I will see if I can fit everything in there before I look for a new bag...but it was my favorite yellow suitcase :(. RIP
Anyways, I finally arrived in Chaing Mai perhaps 2 hours ago. I found this lovely guest house that Abe recommended called Giant Guest house. They greeted me with hugs, a nice clean room with a fan, drinking water, hot tea, and free internet. I took a little stroll to stretch my legs. Tried some random things wrapped in a banana leaf that was delicious, but I failed in figuring out what it was called. I kept pointing at it asking, "name?" "called?" she replied "pork" over and over again. I nodded, trying to convey that i understood there was pork inside. I pointed to things I thought I knew like "rice" "curry" then pointing to the banana leaf with a quizzical look...but she just put the curry and rice in the bag as well. I said nevermind and paid for the thai tamale and continued my walk.
I think I actually need a nap. Landing is always rough and my body is confused what time it is and where I am. So time for nap, maybe some more walking exploring today, maybe try to figure out my luggage deal, and then...I have no idea.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Off to Asia once again!
So I am once again off to Asia, back to India in fact! With a quick detour to Thailand first. So I am starting this blog again for all those interested in my adventures.
Some basics to start with:
I will be leaving this Tuesday October 26th and will arrive in Chiang Mai in the morning of October 28th to spend a week in Thailand! Then I am off to India for Diwali on November 4th, the festival of lights. I will spend two months there ending with the wedding of my roommate last year. Then I come back to the states on January 5th when I will start the process of relocating to The City of Angels, California.
While I am in India I will have phone numbers and ways I can be reached, however in the meantime I also have a google voice number that you can call and leave me a message that I can get in my e-mail! This will eventually be my "professional" number and it is based in LA. That number is: (424) 226-8272 (which is also 226-TARA)
I love comments but I also love hearing your voice! So feel free to contact me that way.
So just a brief update for those of you I haven't seen in awhile. After graduation I spent the summer working at camp for children and adults with various different abilities (hemophilia, autism, Deaf, Traumatic Brain Injuries, etc). I was hired as the Photographer, but I also made a documentary about it.
Then I traveled to California where I became a wedding planner for a week and attended the wonderful union of Amanda and Pete! As well as had a wonderful time with Rick, Lisa, and miraculously my entire Santa Cruz crew happened to be there at the same time, which was amazing. It was a great and interesting trip. Throughout my adolescence, Santa Cruz has always been a wonderful safe haven where my friends have provided with support and comfort. However this time, all my friends were in various states of flux, and so felt wonderful to give back some of that support I have been so lucky to have for so many years.
Then I was in New Mexico which just completely flew by. I basked in the beautiful aspens changing to gold and the smell of green chile roasting in the air. I caught up with some old friends and even found some Wes friends who had relocated to Santa Fe! I volunteered for a bit with Organizing for America to help support electing a Democratic Governor instead of a Tea Party Governor. And I also made a lovely side-trip to Denver to see yet another Wes friend and the amazing Margret Cho.
I got to New York just in time for homecoming at Wes which I just got back from today. It was so lovely to see so many smiling and familiar faces. I think one of the saddest parts about leaving Wesleyan was realizing that there are so many acquaintances who I never spent a ton of time with but who I loved seeing around, hearing their comments in class, smiling and waving to as we walked by each other or inviting into my house, and that those are the people I won't stay in touch with, but that I sorely miss. Also after being in the "real world" for a bit (or avoiding the real world by traveling), I am once again reminded how convenient college is, everything is just THERE and in WALKING distance. Wesleyan also has some voodoo magic where every homecoming weekend is just gorgeous, the colors were spectacular.
So other than that, I have been gearing up for my travels and for my relocation to Los Angeles! Thanks for reading, and my next post should be from somewhere across the ocean!
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Nepalese Politics
So I thought that the trek would be my last e-mail, but apparently more stuff decided to happen. Since the trek went a little longer than expected, the extra trekking days cut into my shopping days. We decided that the morning after my last e-mail would be my major shopping day, as well as going to the Indian airlines office to print out my ticket (since apparently here and in Nepal they won't even let you into the airport building without the ticket, even if it is an e-ticket). However when we woke up we discovered that there was another big strike or protest going on. No cars were driving anywhere, not even bicycles or rickshaws because protesters were letting the air out of tires. Furthermore no shops were open either. We decided to try to go to the airline office anyways by walking. It was so eerie to see these streets of which we almost got run over every 3 seconds on before, now completely empty of wheeled vehicles. The fact that all the stores were all locked up enhanced the eeriness since the restaurants usually blare music and store owners shout after you as you walk down the streets. However now, everyone just walked around as if in a dream, on empty quite streets, looking aimless as if not knowing what to do. It was hard to figure out what exactly what was going on, but I think it was a Maoist protest protesting the current administration. Maoists are not the majority however, but we got the sense that many people were cooperating because they were scared. There were a few stores very quietly open, with their metal grates only half open so all anyone from the outside could were people's feet. We made it to the airline office and then headed back to the hotel since nothing else was open.
The next day we heard from Ratna that there were 25 cars burned. Even though Dad and I felt safe walking around, I feel like I got out of Nepal in the nick of time in terms of at least avoiding logistical complications. Nepal is a very new democracy, so it seems to be going through quite a bit of growing pains right now. On the last day my dad's friend Madu, a thangka painter, came to talk to us because we did not have much time when we first saw him in Bhaktipur. Madu and Dad have a special connection, they just really enjoy each others conversation and seem to understand each other well. Madu seemed particularly concerned with my future relationships and being cautious about who I choose as a husband, as well as my relationship with dad. At times it almost felt like a Nepalese therapy session (meaning the therapist does the talking/ advice), but it was done with purely sweet intentions and I enjoyed getting to know him better. Later in the day we met with Ratna again in Patan. Both Ratna and Madu showered me with presents. I always feel a little embarrassed at the end of trips in Asia because I often get showered with gifts but never know what I can give back. Dad took Ratna and his wife out to a nice Italian dinner in Thamel where we introduced them to some new things, like penne al a vodka and brownies.
This morning I got to the airport 3 hours early ( an hour before the ticket counter even opened) and safely got back to India. The air in the taxi blew on me like a hot air blow dryer and I knew that the monsoons hadn't hit North India yet. I am now at the program center killing time before my next flight back to the states! Apparently another girl on my program is flying out with me. For all of you that want to know, my flight is on Air France #AF 255 from Delhi to Paris and then AF 012 from Paris to NY where I should arrive around 12:45. It is nice to see the staff here again, though it strange to be here without the rest of the group. I found out though that I got the highest Hindi mark, as well as doing well on the rest of my classes. So the next time I see daylight will be in the US, though it hasn't quite sunk in that I am leaving Asia, I feel like I am ready to come back. I'll send out probably one or two more e-mails: one letting you know I arrived back ok, and one more when I posted my pictures.
The next day we heard from Ratna that there were 25 cars burned. Even though Dad and I felt safe walking around, I feel like I got out of Nepal in the nick of time in terms of at least avoiding logistical complications. Nepal is a very new democracy, so it seems to be going through quite a bit of growing pains right now. On the last day my dad's friend Madu, a thangka painter, came to talk to us because we did not have much time when we first saw him in Bhaktipur. Madu and Dad have a special connection, they just really enjoy each others conversation and seem to understand each other well. Madu seemed particularly concerned with my future relationships and being cautious about who I choose as a husband, as well as my relationship with dad. At times it almost felt like a Nepalese therapy session (meaning the therapist does the talking/ advice), but it was done with purely sweet intentions and I enjoyed getting to know him better. Later in the day we met with Ratna again in Patan. Both Ratna and Madu showered me with presents. I always feel a little embarrassed at the end of trips in Asia because I often get showered with gifts but never know what I can give back. Dad took Ratna and his wife out to a nice Italian dinner in Thamel where we introduced them to some new things, like penne al a vodka and brownies.
This morning I got to the airport 3 hours early ( an hour before the ticket counter even opened) and safely got back to India. The air in the taxi blew on me like a hot air blow dryer and I knew that the monsoons hadn't hit North India yet. I am now at the program center killing time before my next flight back to the states! Apparently another girl on my program is flying out with me. For all of you that want to know, my flight is on Air France #AF 255 from Delhi to Paris and then AF 012 from Paris to NY where I should arrive around 12:45. It is nice to see the staff here again, though it strange to be here without the rest of the group. I found out though that I got the highest Hindi mark, as well as doing well on the rest of my classes. So the next time I see daylight will be in the US, though it hasn't quite sunk in that I am leaving Asia, I feel like I am ready to come back. I'll send out probably one or two more e-mails: one letting you know I arrived back ok, and one more when I posted my pictures.
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